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1. Remove all panels that cover any electrical connection. This includes the disconnect box inner panel, the compressor terminal wire connection cover, and the main circuit breaker panel where the power supply to the condenser is hooked up.
2. Check the connections and the condition of the wiring in the disconnect box. Are the wires burnt? If they are see Replacing Burnt Wires. Are the carriers for the fuses fatigued and/or discolored? If they are see Replacing the Disconnect.
3. Check the contactor. Is it pitted? Is it burned black? When it is engaged does it chatter? If any of these are true then see Replacing the Contactor.
4. Check the capacitors. Check for leaking oil and burnt electrical connections. If any of these are true then see Testing Capacitors.
5. Check the compressor terminals. These burn often. If the wires are burnt, but the terminals are in good shape see Replacing Burnt Wires or Compressor Leads. A simple test once the wires are exposed is ohming out the terminals to ground. This is especially important every time the circuit breaker is tripped or the fuses are blown
6. Check the condition of the main panel. Anything unusual? Are the buss bars burnt or discolored? If they are see The Main Panel Replacement.
7. Check all electrical connections for tightness. If any connections are loose tighten them up. Loose connections cause heat and can cause a fire.
8. For obvious signs of Freon leakage see Repairing Freon Leaks. An obvious sign of Freon leaking is a abundance of oil around a fitting, connection, or part such as a filter dryer.
9. Look at the compressor and fan motor. Are they the original parts? If they are not, verify that they are the correct size and that they have been installed properly. The biggest problems that we experience with air conditioning units are shoddy repairs being made.
Your Visual Inspection is not complete until you perform a Visual Inspection of the air handler
A. You must check the filter. It must be clean.
B. Ensure that the blower wheel is clean and the motor is set on the correct speed.
C. All the supply registers must be open and unrestricted.
D. The return air plenum must be large enough and unrestricted.
E. The duct work must be sufficient in size and be in good condition.
F. The evaporator coils must be clean.
G. The condensing coils must be clean.
H. The condensing fan motor must be the correct size
I. The condensing fan blade must be the correct size and pitch.
It does nothing but generate complaints against you to install a new condensing unit or a new compressor only to then turn around and have the new unit fail because the duct work was crushed. The new unit may be overcharged due to not enough airflow across the evaporator coil. If this is the case the new compressor could fail due to liquid slugging.
Check out the condition of the condensing coil. If the coil is in bad shape the route to go would certainly be to replace the unit. If the coil is in bad shape chances are there is a Freon leak or the Head pressures are so high that the compressor has either Gone to Ground or went off on Thermal Overload. The ability to see the problem is very important in the diagnosing stage. It is also vitally important in the sales stage of the job. If you see a problem, point that problem out to the customer. It is important to Discover the Problems Together.
Failing to perform a proper inspection each and every time you are out to a home could result in disaster.
You are on the job to find problems and give estimates to fix those problems. Here are some problems that have been around for years. The knuckleheads that have been maintaining these units obviously don’t know what they are doing. The knuckleheads that installed these units obviously did not obtain the proper permits for the installations.